Urmuth: painting flesh and using colour Advanced | Rating: 9.97 Votes: 32 Views: 17328 | By: automaton  |
| Category: Painting Subcategory: Techniques | Date: 2008-10-27 02:28:53 |
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A
word (or two!) on colour
I'm
going to talk about a little theory here, but I realise it may not be
the most interesting thing in the world for a lot of you! So if you
are interested in the practical part, but just cannot face
wading into the theory, then feel free to skip ahead to the next
section where I begin painting the flesh. In recognition of you guys,
and in the tradition of Mythbusters:

In
my opinion, to create a great fantasy figure, it is crucial to
emphasise the overall 'concept' past the point of realism, and into
the realm of hyper-reality. This is an important part of the way I
think about painting, so I would like to take a few moments to
explain it a little.
In
order to take the step up into real fantasy-style painting, I think
one needs to let go of the intuition that a miniature should look
'realistic', and instead try to think along more 'artistic' lines:
what mood or atmosphere am I trying to evoke with the figure, and how
can I transmit this feeling to the viewer? This is where colour
choice and balance, contrast and lighting, and groundwork (basing)
start to play a more important role. If you can break the boundaries
of what is possible in the real world and try to create something
that goes further than reality – whether it be colouring,
lighting or whatever – then I feel you can obtain a stronger, more
focussed result, that creates a much clearer mood in the mind of the
viewer. There is a place for realism, of course, and many people
enjoy painting realistic pieces; I am just saying that for me
personally, and the way I like to paint, a conceptual portrayal of a
figure is much more important than a realistic portrayal.
Let
us take a quick look at the palette of colours I have chosen for
Urmuth. My personal taste in colour means that I usually prefer a
very balanced scheme of warm and cool colours on a miniature. Because
of this, most of my colour schemes could be characterised as either
triadic (using three colours equally spaced around the colour
wheel), or split complementary (a set of analogous colours,
'split' from a basic key colour, counter-balanced by this key
colour's complementary). Urmuth's scheme is an example of a split
complementary scheme. See the picture below:

You
can see that the dominant warm colour I have chosen is a sort of
golden yellow colour – you would probably describe this hue as
yellow-orange. I knew from the start that I wanted to use this hue
for the flesh areas of the figure, so I used this fact to help me
make the rest of the colour choices. The yellow-orange has been
balanced by its complementary hue, the purple-blue, and then by two
other hues lying on either side – the red-purple and green-blue
hues – creating a sort of 'peace sign' spread on the colour
wheel...peace man, peace! So this spread between green-blue and
red-purple makes up all of the cold portion of the colour scheme, and
the yellow-orange provides a dramatic warm counter-balance.
I
also put thought into the distribution of cold and warm colours over
a figure. I think it is nice to use the dichotomy between cold and
warm to one's advantage, in order to break up different areas of a
miniature by creating colour contrasts. I also think it is important
to balance the opposing forces of warm and cold, so that the end
result still presents a visually satisfying experience...I think this
sort of effect is often subconscious in the viewer, but I have
noticed that a visually balanced and well composed figure tends to be
more successful and 'popular', even if the viewer cannot put their
finger on the exact reasons.
To
illustrate this balance between cold and warm colours, I have made up
a little comparison photo below. On the left, I have removed all of
the warm colours, leaving only the cold; on the right, the opposite,
only warm colours remain. This should make the spread and placement
of the cold and warm colours more clear.

In
these photos, you can see the way in which the cold and warm colours
are spread quite evenly, in a balanced way, over the figure. The
lower section, from the straps around his stomach to the top of the
boots, is predominantly cold, and this is why I have introduced
elements such as the belt, staff of the axe, metal pendant etc. in
warm colours, to 'break' the coldness and prevent it from becoming
too dominant or overwhelming. Similarly, in the upper half of the
figure, the cold elements are designed to break up the dominant warm
colouring.
It
is also worth mentioning the special colour attention given to the
main 'focus area' of the figure: the upper shoulders and head. In
addition to using the cold versus warm principle, I have also
intentionally increased the saturation of the colours here, to create
a more violent contrast of colours. The extra brightness of the
green-blue on the horns and necklace charm, the red-orange hair, the
red-purple straps on the horns, red and yellow tints on the helmet,
the dark colour of the chest strap against the light flesh of the
shoulders, and extra colours nuances in the face, are designed to
ensure that this area of the figure becomes the focus of attention.
It is natural for the eye to be drawn to areas of greater contrast,
so by employing colour in this way, we can direct the viewer's
attention to the places we feel are most important.

These
are the sorts of issues I think about when designing a colour scheme,
and making my colour choices when painting. Using colour contrast in
these sorts of ways can help to make the detail of a figure more
clear and 'readable' for the viewer, present areas of focus on the
model in order to control the movement of the eye, and help to create
a more pleasing result.
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Zardan
09 January 09 |  |
Rating: 10
Thank you very much!
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Tetracanthus
17 November 08 |  |
Rating: 10
I aspire to your level of painting, now that I see it done properly I'll have to do it properly.
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Tetracanthus
17 November 08 |  |
Rating: 10
I aspire to your level of painting, now that I see it done properly I'll have to do it properly.
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mattmcl
05 November 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Great article. The pics and illustrations are perfect. Thanks!
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Turelio
30 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Terrific work as usual!
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daemon boy
29 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
... ill say no more !
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Heroes31
29 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Thx a lot ! Respect !
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cybersquig
29 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
absolutely fantastic, thank you (o:
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Juan
28 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 
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painterboyroy
28 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
work filters out the images, any chance of a pdf version, would love to have hard copy on desk for reference. had a look at this in friends house and is awesome..
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ThoFu
28 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
I guess this ist the best article I've read so far on CMON. Keep it up!
CU Thomas
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Avelorn
28 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Fantastic! Thank you so much for taking the time.
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Lemmingspawn
28 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Excellent, Sebastian. This is exactly the kind of information I've been looking for. Admittedly, I probably haven't looked hard enough (yeah yeah - lazy me) but you've not only given us a great insight into the method of painting flesh but also a further glimpse into the intricacies of smooth painting. I will find the colour theory information especially to be of a lot of use, I haven't found that information explained in such a clear way yet and it is excellent to see it so coherently presented. Thank you, oh Wizard of Oz!
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crazyboyae1
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
thank you so much your articals are always so valuable!
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boristfrog
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
One of the best articles I've read. Clear, great step by step photos of the model and the paints, and understandable text.
Thanks for taking the time - much appreciated.
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Aliengod3
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
I was hoping you would paint this mini. Now I want to buy it.
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nightsword
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
What I'd call a "complete" article, which doesn't always occur on CMON. You've gone from prep, throught the theory (which was definately interesting ) through to the actual application, and whilst a little wordy in places, it is absolutely fantastic. Thank you so much for sharing.
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Donga
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Where's the article on cheese?
Superb work and thank you for putting it together.
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Mantra
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Absolutly fantastic article Seb, its great to have you share your wonderful talent with us in such great detail.
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mickc22
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
excellent! Thanks for sharing, it's good to see different techniques. -mick
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mickc22
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
excellent! thanks for sharing. It's good to see other techniques, as you say there is no "right" way, just different ways
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Alienerd
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
This is so natural. It is as if a photo of someone dressed up has been taken. The watered down miliput is a great idea too. Will have to try that.
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Sonnyslayer
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
One of the best articles around. Have to try this sometime.
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lunawolf
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
This is really helpfull. great work, always enjoy seeing your stuff.
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Jabberwocky
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Simply amazing. I wondered if it would be possible to top your metallics tutorial; you have! Tthank you so much for taking the time to put this together!
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HOHO
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
Genial, thanks for this article. Regards Sören
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psycho alchemist
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
This article is just fantastic, your masterpieces are not only a matter of brush and paint, you demonstrated to be a real artist playing like that with colors!
Thanks for sharing! 
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Harhad
27 October 08 |  |
Rating: 10
oh , holy thanks for this aritcle !!!
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