Back to CoolMiniOrNot
Verdigris
Advanced
Return to article index
Rating: 8.78 Votes: 9
Views: 10241
By: blackfly
Category: Painting Subcategory: Armies and themesDate: 2008-02-10 23:03:54
1 2 3 Next

When it comes to painting and modeling, its often the little touches of creativity that can really make a piece stand out. A great looking game layout is all the more enjoyable to play on and can make the experience that much more engaging. A little unexpected touch of style can make your figure jump out from the crowd. Verdigris is one of those techniques I think every painter ought to have in their bag of tricks for just those reasons. It may not be one youll use all the time, but when you have the call for it, I think you'll be glad that you can deliver.

As with most painting techniques, it helps to have a good idea of what youre trying to represent when you set out to figure out how to do it. Verdigris is the common name for the chemical compounds formed when copper, brass, or bronze are exposed to air, water, and other trace elements therein, resulting in copper acetate [Cu2(OAc)4 ], copper chloride [CuCl2], and copper carbonate [ CuCO3]. It is the blue-green you see on an old oxidized penny, old wiring, and old statues in the park. The name in fact comes from the Old French `vertegrez`, or `the green of Greece`, due to the preponderance of the substance on ancient Greek artifacts. Although it is most commonly seen in variations of blue-green, depending on the chemicals which have been present it can in fact vary quite a bit from dark blues to bright greens and even yellows and white at various stages of exposure.



In this article I'll demonstrate a couple of recipes and techniques that are quite easy to get the hang of and can be used to great effect. I'm no expert on the technique, but I have spent some time working with it, so hopefully my groundwork will be a helpful base for taking off and running with it in your own projects.

For these examples I'm using some old Reiksguard Knights from Citadel. They are a good choice to use as statues, and they offer quite a bit of topographic variety so you can see how the effect works on various surfaces. All three are primed black to start. The first two examples will both begin with bronze. My metals start with TinBitz (GW), Burnished Bronze (VMC) and a little Burnished Brass(GW) to brighten them up. That just happens to be a recipe I enjoy for a bronze that is both rich and bright, whatever your favorite starting place for these metals is will be fine.



Method 1: Verdigris in a bottle.

There are bottled formulas out there from a variety of manufacturers for all sorts of effects, including verdigris. I've chosen Verdigris Glaze (VMC932) for this as I'm sure the brand is familiar to most readers.

The first thing to mention about Vallejo's verdigris is it is a glaze- not in the thin almost ink-wash sense that painters generally use for that term, but in the sense of a glazed doughnut. It has a thick consistency and milky complexion out of the bottle. You'll want to water it down on your palette so you can get it where you want it. Unless you're doing a piece where the oxidation has taken over everywhere, this is going to be in cracks and crevices where water might pool, and on surfaces bounded by lips and edges where moisture may be held on by surface tension.



Although it is a light blue color at first, this can be deceiving. As you apply the glaze, especially thinned to a usable consistency, you will see that it dries in a more chalky white shade.

With only one application you get this:



There is not much to see at this point. There are two approaches with Vallejos glaze: Lots of thin coats, or fewer thicker ones. You certainly get more noticeable results if you glob it on there, but its harder to control.

Here you see the figure progressing with additional coats:



As you can see, the result is a little less than stunning. Ive seen other tutorials where people make moderately good use of this product, but to really finish it, they almost always end up with normal pigments. This last image, taken under proper lighting, is about as good as it gets in my experience:



Hopefully this will save you from bothering with additional products you dont need when you already probably have what you need to make the same thing, only much better.

1 2 3 Next
blackfly
16 April 08
Thanks Rastl, big of you to step up . Much appreciated.
Rastl
13 April 08
Rating: 10
D'oh!

I apologize profusely to Blackfly for not seeing the attribution.

Friar
14 March 08
Rating: 10
Great article! Even if you did plagiarize yourself Excellent Work.

blackfly
25 February 08
Rastl- Thanks for voting first and checking later. Or not at all.


If you look at last page of the article there is proper attribution. This is the same license as was included in WPM, so even if I didn't write it, which I did, anyone is free to post it as long as it is properly attributed per the license terms. I appreciate your concern over IP, but if you are going to raise an alarm perhaps you might consider taking a couple minutes to get your facts straight.
Rastl
21 February 08
Rating: 1
This is the exact same tutorial from The Court Jester Studio so unless blackfly wrote the original one this isn't very kosher to post.

garka
20 February 08
Rating: 10
Nice!

Pentrago
12 February 08
Rating: 10
Very good article! The explanations are informative and easy to follow and the illustrating pictures are excellent.

mattsterbenz
11 February 08
Rating: 10
Beautiful, realistic effect. This is surely something I will be trying out myself. Thank you!

You are not logged in.
If you would like to leave a comment and don't have an account, please signup.
You'll get access to Vote tracking so you will never see the same miniature twice (unless you want to) and many other enhancements to your browsing experience.

Start voting!
Menu
Home
Browse gallery
Top 10
Top 50 Artists
Top Last 7 days
Competition Gallery
Recent Auctions
Account Functions
Member Login
Sign-up

Get an account for:
-Vote Tracker
-Theme Manager
-Comments
-Forums
-Messages
-Shouts
Signup Now!
Community
Articles
Forums
Blogs
Advertise
Supporters
CoolMiniOrNot Shop
News
FAQ
Contact Us
Submit News
Statistics

Search images


eg. "Confrontation"

the id of the picture
Recent Articles
Bone-colored Cryx bonejack, step by step
- Pate5 24-10
Nurgle Armor
- Aliengod3 12-8
Simple rust tutorial
- lord von braken 9-8
How to make Double Twist barbed wire
- mickc22 16-7
How to make a Lava Themed Gaming Table
- Menelker 12-6
Making Army Transport Trays for Storing Figures
- Menelker 11-6
Recently on the Forums
looking for a mini line (have description but no name)
- jahminis 21-11 08:51pm
Anyone near Vancouver?
- Aliengod3 21-11 06:04pm
Minis, fresh from your gaming table...
- BPI 21-11 05:14pm
Nearly my 2nd Anniversary - Looking for advice and Wisdom :)
- Byronic 21-11 04:12pm
3 new paintjobs!!!
- Brother Tom 21-11 03:46pm
Anybody know what this mini is?!
- mickc22 21-11 03:15pm
Recent Blogs
Quick update
- RevMini 21-Nov 11:53am
Cirith Ungol - next step
- Observer 20-Nov 02:05am
Inquisitorial land rader. More flatwork
- skeeve 17-Nov 07:17am
Welcome!
- CaptainAnarchy 23-Oct 09:04am
Techpriest Conversion + Sky-Earth NMM Chrome
- slobby 23-Oct 07:32am