Thanks a lot to Peter Shepheard for his big help

Greenstuff (GS) or Duro:

GS (Greenstuff) is generally supplied in two-tone strips (as pictured). More recently, it can be found in tubes, where the two coloured sections are supplied in separate sticks rather than joined at the middle. This means none of the greenstuff will have cured before mixing, making it better for sculptors. One mixes the two colors (blue and yellow) and the result is a green paste (hence the name greenstuff) which cures/hardens in a few hours (though it is malleable for sculpting during the the first couple of hours).

Some basic advice:

- Always wear gloves when handling the GS, as it can be irritating to the skin (Vinyl gloves are better, as they stick less to the GS than latex gloves).

- It is recommended to remove the centre of the GS before mixing (ie: the part where the two colours meet in the strip) as the GS at this point may already have begun to cure. To further ensure the GS stays fresh, it is a good idea to keep the GS in the fridge.

- After having obtained a beautiful green color (by mixing for at least a minute), remove any "yellow grains" or parts that have not been mixed, or are already slightly cured.

- Always lubricate your tools (with water, oil or petroleum jelly…) and have a clean work area.

- Always build up a figure with several layers rather than trying to sculpt all at once.

- Test various mixtures of GS by adding different ratios, ie: more blue than yellow or the reverse. You will see that the different ratios can have very different properties.

- The GS has properties which change when it starts to cure. This means you should do some parts of a sculpture with fresh GS, and others with it slightly cured.

- Do not prepare too much GS (You will normally only need a little when making miniatures, and you can always mix more).

- One can accelerate the drying time of the duro by placing it under a lamp (warning! If the heat is too high, the surface of your mini can burn).

- Once cured, the duro is like soft plastic and it is very difficult to sand/file down.

Tools:

Needles assembled on the handle of old brushes, 2 or 3 tools that my dentist gave me, 1 or 2 clay shapers (these help with the smoothing of the GS) and a hobby knife, or blade (like X-Acto or another). A glass of water, oil (petroleum jelly or others) to wet the instruments, different grades of iron wire, toothpicks and a hand drill. A grip to hold the figurine (a wine bottle cork works well and is used by many sculptors). To avoid accidents, make sure your work area is clean and has a cover to protect it from spillages etc.