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This is one of the first - possibly _the_ first - minis I ever bought. (the other 2 that might have been my first are in the "brokens" box waiting for me to develop a sculpting skill so I can fix them).
He is dated 1976.
He's not the oldest I have but he's the oldest painted one I have.
There's not a lot of detail, I know, but if anyone has suggestions for improving the paint job I'd love to hear them.
If you are curious about the weapon, it's a mattock. They were wielded by Dain's kin in the battle of the 5 armies (from the Hobbit). Back in 1976 Tolkein was everything to fantasy. However I think because of the copyright they couldn't use the name, so this guy was just "dwarf." However, anyone who had read the Hobbit would recognize the weapon (and the symbol on the shield which is slung on his back, along with a sword).
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Viewer comments:
KingClovii
20-Oct-03
#57737 |  | Rating: 5
You are right, this is a hard mini to paint. It has recently been reissued by Ral Partha Classics....The only suggestion I might make is to thin your paints a little bit..it would help tremendously!! |
finn17
04-Mar-03
#30680 |  | Rating: 6
I think this is great! A perfect antidote to Rackham (I'm not Knocking Rackham).
A growing number of people seem to be increasingly fed up with sophisticated computer games and really early games like 'space invaders' and 'pong' are being cherished for their simplicity and gameplay. I wonder if there are any parallels here, or perhaps I'm just an old git getting too nostalgic? |
by zeph
21-Feb-03
#29650 |  | Rating: 6
OMG, a halfling dressed up like a dwarf... I have to agree with Nadine, you could actually have gotten away with making him shirtless and that chainmail becomes body hair. Good job overall, 2 suggestions. When doing wood if you paint the area white, then really thin out some scorched brown painting it on in thin layers and leaving a bit more of the color here and there then wash it lightly with black only in the crevases and let dry. Finally use a little brown or chestnut to really make the color come alive. Also on leather, there's nothing like snakebite covered by chestnut wash then highlighted with more snakebite.  I gave you a six because I thought you deserved a 5.5 just for painting this sculpt. Later |
nadine
04-Jan-03
#24636 |  | Rating: 5
I gave you a 5. This is a dreadful sculpt, but the painting quality is a nice tabletop standard.
One thing I think you can work on is your highlighting. The range of your highlight color seems fairly narrow-there doesn't appear to be a lot of difference between the base and the highlight color. There is a nice highlight emerging on the knuckles of the fig's right hand-let's see a bit more of that lightness on his left hand fingertips/thumb.
And correct the readily apparent 'boo boos' You've a bit of paint spilled in between the fingers; just go back and touch up the brown line. |
Flashman14
03-Jan-03
#24612 |  | Rating: 5
You love punishing yourself with these bad sculpts huh Vince! (like the chainmail resembles a hair shirt now instead of stout dwarven chain, and an opponent is more likely to suffer from bruises rather than cuts from the mattock)
But as for painting, think about where your light source is coming from - as a general rule of thumb I assume that light is coming from more or less directly above the figure. This means that the tops of things will get the lightest highlight. (top of the ax handle should be lighter than the rest, tops of the shoes should be lighter than the rest, tops of the shoulders and the peaked top of the helm should be lighter than the rest)
The other place to get the lightest highlights is the edges of things (like the bottom edge of the blue ?pants?, and the bottom edge of the helm, where the metal meets the wood on the axe and the top edge of the NON-business end of the handle for example . . .
Also the flesh on the fingers has run together such that the fingers appear joined - just bring back that brown line between each finger to bring back some definition to each piece on the model.
And my final comment: (and I sometimes fall victim to this too) each highlight should be markedly lighter then the next. I find I try to be too safe so I can barely discern the difference between the base color and the highlight color. Esp the Left hand on this model which appears to be only one color - in other words increase the color depth within that flesh pallette you're using. On the Left Hand Only: Med/dark brown between the fingers, flesh for the back of the hand (underneath the axe), a lighter flesh on the front of the fingers facing the camera and at minimum an even lighter flesh on the finger tips facing straight up. I also would do the knuckles a dot of even yet whiter flesh on the main knuckle mid finger.
The real answer (for me anyways) is to use what folks are calling the "layer" method by which 5-10 (or more) seperate shades of a single color are mixed up - each one lighter than the rest and each color applied in smaller quantities onto the model. This gives tremendous depth to a color - from a real deep pigment and many lighter incarnations of it up to near white.
Hope this helps!
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Mytola
23-Nov-02
#20548 |  | Rating: 5
Cool to see some old minis, too! Thin down your paints! |
Canopicdoll
08-Oct-02
#15807 |  | Rating: 5
1976? Wow that's really old!! | |
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